September 06 2013

Makeup Artist, Claire (she) and Dermal Therapist, James (he) share their views…


She says

Makeup is a balancing act and when it comes to achieving a flawless application, there is a rule of thumb. Follow my step-by-step tried and tested process…

Apply a primer to your whole face, even your eyelids and allow it to settle before applying your moisturiser.

Always start from the centre of the face/t-zone and work outwards. There is no need to apply it to every inch of your face, avoid a ‘mask’ effect and aim to simply even out your complexion

Using a fine brush, apply your concealer sparingly under the eyes, around the corners of the nose and on any redness/spots or discolouration

Using a liquid eyeshadow is a simple solution to eye colour. Use a small brush and start from the outside of the eye and work inwards.

Curling and Mascara:
Start at the root of your lashes and gradually ‘walk’ the eyelash curler towards the ends. Work your mascara brush from the roots right up to the ends. A ‘zig-zag’ motion with your hand will define each lash and prevent clumping. Less is more on your bottom lashes.

Add subtle length or shade in any gaps using a brow pencil or eyebrow brush & powder. Light feathery strokes will replicate the look of natural hairs, don’t be heavy handed or obvious. And blend, blend, blend!

Apply the blush to your cheekbones and blend the colour up towards your temple/hairline. Avoid applying in big circles to the apples of your cheeks.

Mimic the shape of the number ‘3’ by sweeping your bronzer lightly across your forehead, then under your cheekbone and finally along your jawline. Keep it light and natural.

When using a lipliner, always start at the centre of the lips. Make sure your pencil is sharp! Apply gloss sparingly to the centre of the lips and let the colour blend out naturally.

He says

When and how to apply your cosmetics are just as important as what is inside them.

Commence your routine with a cleanse to soften the skin and allow your additional steps to penetrate more effectively.
(Tip: If you prefer not to cleanse in the morning or evening, use a toner on a dampened cotton pad to substitute the action of a cleanse.)

If prescribed, apply your toner.
(Tip: If applying your toner with a cotton pad, saturate the cotton pad and squeeze out any excess water before applying your toner to the cotton pad. This allows the toner to absorb into your skin as opposed to absorbing into the cotton pad.)

This is your opportunity to really do your skin some good (assuming you’re using a good serum(s)), so massage your serums individually from lightest to heaviest. You may massage them into the skin until they have completely absorbed or you may like to transfer any residual product down to the neck and chest areas.
(Tip: If time is an issue, cocktail your serums together in your hand and apply them simultaneously. They may require a little more time to message them in, however, your skin will appreciate the massage.)

Eye Creams
Prior to moisturising, apply your prescribed eye cream so that it doesn’t have to fight its way through to the skin. Apply along the entire orbital bone – from the inner section of the eye all the way to the start of the eyebrow.
(Tip: When applying your moisturiser, avoid the eye area so that you do not shift the already applied eye cream.)

If you do not get enough nourishment from your serums alone, you may now apply your moisturising product. As you have already massaged your serums into the skin, simply pat your moisturising product onto the surface of the skin so that it may perform its hydrating duties where it does best – at the surface.
(Tip: a good moisturiser should look after your skin both day and night. Instead, opt for differing serums that take care of the different needs of your skin throughout the day. E.g. an antioxidant serum during the day and an exfoliating serum at night.)

Only relevant during the day, your final application should be with a sunscreen containing either Zinc or Titanium Dioxide. These ingredients sit on the surface of the skin and provide you with the all-year-around protection from UVA rays AKA the ageing rays.
(Tip: Favour sunscreens with the above ingredients as all chemical sunscreen ingredients require an interaction with the skin and should therefore be applied immediately after cleansing! Try toning, serum-ing and hydrating over the top of that. YUCK!)